Uber-designer Marc Jacobs, in his signature kilt and Doc Martens, took the podium at the Costume Institute’s opening press conference on Monday morning, winging it, as he said he had not prepared a speech to say how thrilled he was to be honorary chairman of the exhibition celebrating the Model as Muse: Embodying Fashion. According to Harold Koda who co-curated the MET’s show and co-wrote the smart companion catalogue along with Kohle Yohannan who also worked on the excellent Valentina show at The Museum of the City of New York, Marc had one criteria: make the exhibition lively. And they did. The first image: Dovima and the elephants, the Dior gown she wore on a mannequin for Avedon’s iconic photo. Moving historically from room to room, with a soundtrack introducing each era: “C’est Ci Bon,” “Talking ‘Bout My Generation,” the show starts with the 1940’s featuring the photography of Irving Penn, Cecil Beaton, Charles James, and their muses including Lisa Fonssagrives, Suzy Parker, Sunny Harnett. And then moving on to “Youthquake,” with Jean Shrimpton, Twiggy, Marisa Berenson, Veruschka and Peggy Moffit. Even the Sports Illustrated covers get a nod, with Christie Brinkley, Cheryl Tiegs--and then Jerry Hall, Patti Hanson, Naomi Campbell, Christy Turlington, Linda Evangilista in a photo by Steven Meisel. Kohle Yohannan said he loves what is happening now as a result of the awareness of these models’ role: women of all shapes, sizes, colors are celebrated on the current reality shows. Harold Koda recounted that on Friday night, when the creators saw the exhibit for the first time, Anna Wintour said of the “grunge” room, it’s not grungy. And so the creative team including John Myrhe and Julien d’Y’s spent the weekend painting the walls’ graffiti-like images. Seated in the front row, she was definitely this show’s muse: Anna Wintour
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