In a new documentary L'Amour Fou about the iconic Yves St. Laurent, it is hard to tell just what is the object of that besotted state: his work, his substantial art collection, his posh homes in Paris, Marrakech and Normandy, opulently decorated with antiques and woven fabrics. From the perspective of Pierre Berge, St. Laurent's lifelong companion, the film is perhaps an expression of the businessman's own mad devotion to the bespectacled designer who defined fashion in the mid century. In his view, YSL was an aloof workaholic, obsessed with sex and drugs, ambivalent to fame, and mainly depressed. Berge's own place in YSL's life comes off as more business than pleasure. This is not the ebullient Valentino and Giancarlo Giametti.
On the heels of Britain's royal wedding and the gown crafted at the late designer's studio by Sarah Burton, The Metropolitan Museum's Costume Institute opened a retrospective of Alexander McQueen's work: room upon trippy room, mannequins display his designs in sculpted wood, leathers, feathers, faux fur, vintage fabrics, a magnificent state of the art exhibit called Savage Beauty. Like YSL, McQueen was an artist whose personal demons remain a mystery. The MET exhibition reveals an aesthetic closer to Mapplethorpe than to other fashion designers, with much that would challenge anyone's wardrobe: sculptural headdresses, a backpiece in wood mimicking the spine of a bird, billowy parachute silk coats.
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